June 19, 2015

June 19^th  We did not really expect to make it to Squirrel and have not studied the currents at Stuart Island. It is definitely a ‘no go’ if you miss the sweet spot at high or low slack.  Just before nightie nights I turn on the computer and discover that if we weigh anchor as 6.30am we will time the current that is on the ebb and we will get a push through all the tidal bores, right up Johnstone Straight. What luck!!  As we make the decision to go through Hole in the Wall rather than Stuart we enter the gap and realize the timing is not just right. The current is running ahead of schedule and we are really boogying along. It is time for a little concern as we do not want to be dodging a giant whirly pool, back eddies and over falls. Could the computer be wrong? Penny asked if the date is programed right. Yes it is on the right date. What about the time?  It is set for 10, o’clock??? AM or PM? OH it’s set for PM.  A twelve hour difference.

OHHH dear, are we going to be like an out of control bob sled spiraling down some tidal bore slide at twenty knots? We can now see the actual Hole in the Wall through binoculars and we are in shit house luck, the timing could not be better. We congratulate ourselves again and then again. We pass Chatham Point on the starboard and at this the current with the not so perfect wind conditions it can be a hell ride. Not bad, a bit bumpy, soon we are out into the Johnstone Straights and pass the weather station at Fanny Island and the wind is posted at two knots.

When we pass there I cannot help thinking of York Island as a gun emplacement in World War 11. Its placement was to defend against subs and war ships that could make a course through Discovery Passage. I trust that if the enemy had managed to get this far down Discovery Passage they would have been better at gauging the currents than us, even with our computer. Getting past the twin spikes in the briny dark foaming passage would have been very good luck with superb seamanship especially at night or in fog. To do it undetected, a miracle.

Explosion of Ripple Rock

The spikes in mid channel known as Ripple Rock were blown to piece in the largest non-nuclear explosion ever detonated in 1958. The explosion was to be so great that it was to be felt in Vancouver many miles away. It had skewered at least 20 large fine vessels and spared no human that found their way into the surge tidal grip surrounding it. 100 lives were lost before Public Works Canada had it removed. I remember sitting on the edge of my seat in anticipation at the Deep Cove Motel with Penny (before we were an item). The motel was the family business.  We and the rest of the known world were watching on TV or listening on radio. Some believed that this could start a chain reaction that could change the world.  Penny’s dad had a NEW black and white TV and the event was televised.

It did change the world for the ships that used the Inside Passage as now they just sail over the one infamous death trap without fear. This whole channel even after the removal of Ripple Rock can still be ferocious today on high swings in the tide.    

Mr. Johnstone Straight was on his best behaviour and we breezed by Port Neville and turned up Havannah Channel to Port Harvey. You never know year to year if the marina has wintered the frequent storms. In a previous year the docks and restaurant, store (on floats) braced against 100 plus mph winds and came adrift.  George the owner was away in Alberta at his winter job and poor wife Gail had to manage. In this remote country neighbors can save your life or property and this was the case at Port Harvey.

Port Harvey

We came around the corner and hailed the marina on VHF66 and asked if there room at the inn. George in a cheery voice came on “YES” and we tied up to an almost full house. They have done a lot of work during off season. Power, water and internet on the docks just like the big city. Chevy loves it here as she can run like the wind and the dock dog (a replacement for the old guy ‘Bear’.) was no match for her speed. They wrestled for hours till they just laid down panting until the next storm of enthusiasm burse forth.

Dinner in the RED SHOE restaurant that overlooks the bay was excellent.  George cooks on the BBQ and takes orders for sticky buns for the next morning